It would be misguided to think that couture collections don’t somehow inform our broader culture, especially since Chanel has proven otherwise. Ever since Gabrielle Chanel swung open the doors of her atelier in 1910, the French fashion house helped shift almost every aspect of society throughout the twenty century. Chanel’s couture collections have often existed at the nexus of culture—highlighting the intersection between high art, high fashion, and social heirearies. Just to put it into perspective, Chanel released its signature tweed button-up sets when it was socially “unacceptable” for women to wear suits. Before the ballet became an indication of highbrow art (much less a trending fashion aesthetic), Chanel had close ties to the ballet, often creating for choreographers and dancers. Basically, Chanel couture has been a part of cultural movements, period.
That historical influence isn’t lost on the brand’s current creative director, Virginie Viard. When it came time to create the spring/summer 2024 collection, Viard was thinking about movement within the context of dance and beyond. We saw that reflected in Viard’s showcasing of signature “balletcore” elements like tulle, ruffles, pleats, and lace throughout the collection. But it was not just the usage of bows and tights that made the collection feel reminiscent of dance; it was the ease of the clothing itself. With so much of traditional” couture, being, well, uncomfortable, it was refreshing to see button-up blazers styled with tulle skirts and mini dresses with tights. It felt emblematic of what Chanel has always been about: giving women the freedom to move. From that liberation, comes a new way in which we’re able to see haute couture’s role in culture.